lostCANADIAN in Mexico

We sweat and pack up the bikes, a morning ritual now as we head out of the slums early, with still much distance left to cover, and going onto our third day of solid riding through the incredible heat... we are exhausted, even before we begin this day's journey.

This days challenge presents itself as the last of the fluid leaks from my front fork, leaving me bottoming out in every right corner in very dangerous curves through the mountains that have now become a nightmare to me as I struggle with all of my available power to keep control of the bike. The pain in my shoulder is a fresh reminder that I can't go down again.

Without control, we take it slow. I made many promises to stay alive and I fight all morning and afternoon doing so. Just another challenge as the curves spit me out into oncoming traffic, but my luck and the charms I carry keep me safe.

Coming out of the mountains we take a break in a small diner to relax pained muscles. The shy smiles and flirty glances from the cute waitress give me confidence, at least I am still attractive to the opposite sex after everything I've gone through!

Pressing onwards, praying for the plateau and a straight toll road, we once again bump into a fellow Adventure Rider as he speeds past us and pulls us over on the shoulder for a quick chat. An Aussie of all things, travelling Mexico and Central America by a KLR motorcycle. Sharing stories and laughs, off he zooms like a madman, practically touching down around every curve.

Dodging herds of cows and bulls along the mountain road, we struggle to avoid the bulls that look a bit too aggressive for us, and the manure they've left scattered across the road, and at last we come out into the plateau and at last a straight road! Only to be stopped a bit further on by the military, we are told to remove all of our gear and bags for a complete inspection. More curious than anything, once they get a look at our map they all come flocking with questions about our trip. Laughing, they call us locos and we speed off to our desintation tonight, Guadalajara!

Arriving, it doesn't take long for my bike to overheat and blow off the duct-tape radiator cap, spewing forth an enormous cloud of smoke into my face and causing alarm from everyone in the area. My bike has had enough, it would seem. I guess even duct-tape can't hold eveything. We managed to locate a BMW dealer in town, but unfortunately won't be open until monday. No choice but to settle down and get some much needed rest and hydration.

Staying at the Hotel Canada, we roll our bikes right into the lobby for overnight security and dine at the Restaurant Ottawa, we feel right at home! After spraying myself down with some Axe at the walmart, and shaving, I felt right as rain!

The challenges have been overwhelming, but we have made it. A couple days of rest are desperately needed, as is the BMW mechanics on monday morning. Our third week on the road and it's really been taking its toll on our bodies, minds and bikes. Mexico has truly been a real eye opener though, as only riding a motorcycle can show you. We have been there, we have done that, and we have seen it all. The worst and the best this country has to offer.

With still two weeks left and a long way from home, I am beginning to miss my bed.